![]() ![]() I also do not know anything about other guiding belay devices, such as the Petzl Reverso these too should be tested.įurthermore, if anybody has any suggestions for how to increase safety with thin ropes, please comment. One possibility is that my specific ATC is worn from years of use, and thus the minimum rope diameter safely useable in guide mode has increased since it was purchased, but it is only a few years old and has a common amount of wear.īottom line: If youre belaying in guide-mode with double or twin ropes, best keep the diameter at 8.0 mm or above, but Im just pulling that number out of nowhere. Thus, I argue that this was proper use of the gear, and warn of this potential safety issue. Of course, 7.8 mm is towards the thinnest dynamic rope available, but the technical specifications for the Black Diamond ATC Guide indicate that the minimal rope diameter for safe use is 7.7 mm. AFAIK mechanical ascenders would be more common for mountaineering routes where youre using a fixed line for hours (e.g. Nevertheless, this was a fairly scary experience, since I was unsure what was going to happen. Ascending a rope with those isnt super efficient, but theyre light and compact. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. Fortunately, the slippage was minimal, and simply pulling hard on the brake strand was enough, combined with the friction between the ropes, to halt downward digression. With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. ![]() I tried to brake the device, but this is actually difficult and awkward, since the brake direction in guide-mode would be into the wall. My follower fell, and instead of the climbing strands cinching down on top of the belay strands, they fell next to the belay strands in the cage of the ATC, and began to slip, slowly lowering the climber. We were climbing on two 7.8 mm half ropes. I was recently belaying a follower from above using a Black Diamond ATC Guide in guide mode. Here I report a failure of this auto-locking feature when used with thin ropes. It works because the device is oriented such that the climbing strands cinch down on the belay strands when loaded, halting downward movement. The 6 Best Climbing Belay Devices of 2023 We've tested belay devices from Petzl, Black Diamond, Camp, and more to find the best model for your adventures By Jeff Dobronyi, Andy Wellman & Jack Cramer Monday Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. One excellent feature of guide mode is that the ATC acts as an auto-locking belay device. ![]() When belaying a follower from above, one can easily belay off an anchor, rather than the body, by using "guide mode", increasing safety and comfort. Its durable, works well with thicker ropes (9.5-11.0 mm), and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode, an attribute that can help prevent. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a near-essential, ever-popular piece of gear designed for multi-pitch rock climbing. ![]()
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